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sábado, 9 de noviembre de 2024

The Morning: The food that moves us

There's a difference between the best pizza and your favorite pizza.
The Morning

November 9, 2024

Good morning. The foods and music and culture that move us most might not be very good, but that doesn't diminish their power to comfort and delight.

An illustration shows a man eating a pizza as he sits on the floor and plays a record on his turntable.
María Jesús Contreras

Playing favorites

Last month, The Times published a list of New York's 25 best pizza places. Like any good New Yorker, I made sure my favorite pie was on the list, then vowed to find a new favorite. There's pleasure in having one's tastes affirmed by the tastemakers. Then there's the even sweeter satisfaction of liking something no one else has discovered yet — a vanishingly rare experience in the TikTok era, when influencers trumpet their "secret" spots to eager followers and the next thing you know, there's a line around the block at your neighborhood bakery.

What makes a food "the best" of its kind, anyway? I loved reading through The Times's list, but it's only of use insofar as it aligns with my own preferences — I'll never love a pizza topped with honey, or chicken, or (controversially, I know) peppers and onions. Sam Sifton's theory of pizza cognition resonates: It posits that a person's primary pizza source, the pizza they grew up eating and loving, is "the pizza that will become that person's inner optimum, the pizza against which all others are judged."

Sam allows that tastes can change — he grew up on slices but developed an appreciation for pan pizza — but I'd argue that even if you refine your definition of the "best" pizza, your earliest taste imprint is still the one that provides the most comfort, the most familiar kind of pleasure. I may feel confident asserting that the best pizza has a thin crust, a slightly spicy sauce and a delicately balanced ratio of sauce to cheese, but the most comforting pizza I know is from a long-closed pizzeria in my hometown where the crust was pillowy and chewy, the sauce Chef Boyardee-sweet, the cheese oily and slipping off.

Comfort foods are nostalgia bombs. They're taste biases that were inscribed early when there wasn't a lot of other data to complicate things. They can be awakened with a smell or a bite or even the sight of a neon sign that reads "Angelina's," the feel of a cardboard box hot on your legs as you carry dinner — half pepperoni, half meatball — home in the passenger seat.

I have always maintained that the most comforting music is whatever you listened to in high school. It's not necessarily the best music by any objective metric, but it's what you listened to when you were formulating key parts of your personality, and that music will always make you feel most essentially yourself. I'd like to figure out other theories of familiarity, ways to reliably induce a sense of deep, cozy satisfaction. Maybe it's all stuff that got to you when you were young and impressionable, the inputs around and on top of which you formulated your more sophisticated opinions. You have your grown-up tastes, built on years of living and experiencing and honing an aesthetic. And then you have the stuff — the chaotic foods you crave, the synth-heavy pop no one else can stand — that, independent of any rational appraisal, feels like home.

For more

THE WEEK IN CULTURE

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Beyoncé earned 11 nominations for "Cowboy Carter." Kevin Winter/Getty Images

THE LATEST NEWS

Donald Trump

Donald Trump, wearing a dark suit and red tie, speaks behind a lectern with the words
Donald Trump on election night. Hiroko Masuike/The New York Times

Democrats

Other Big Stories

CULTURE CALENDAR

🤠 "Yellowstone" (Sunday): The popular Montana-set drama returns for the remaining part of its fifth season this weekend. Join the debate over whether it's prestige TV for red states, a soap opera disguised as a western, a Kelly Reilly showcase or all of the above. One thing to know: Until now, it has starred Kevin Costner, but he won't be back for these episodes.

RECIPE OF THE WEEK

A Chocolate Babka sits on a cooling rack.
Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

Chocolate Babka

Sometimes the best way to spend the day is deep in an immersive, daylong baking project, especially one involving chocolate. My recipe for chocolate babka may involve 14 steps, but it's calming, meditative work, and well worth every sugarcoated moment.

REAL ESTATE

A portrait of Jay Krishnamoorthy, wearing a sweater, and Vidya Jayaraman and Rithika Jayaraman, both wearing floral dresses.
From left, Jay Krishnamoorthy and Vidya Jayaraman with their daughter, Rithika Jayaraman, in Manhattan. Jeenah Moon for The New York Times

The Hunt: An Atlanta couple looked for a modest second home in Manhattan to be closer to their daughter. Which did they choose? Play our game.

What you get for $490,000: A 1928 brick house in Oshkosh, Wis.; a Craftsman-style bungalow in Salt Lake City; or a duplex apartment in an 1854 mill building in Wake Forest, N.C.

LIVING

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Desiree Rios for The New York Times

Paddle pros: The Professional Pickleball Association hopes a world championship this weekend will draw attention to the highest level of the sport.

The warming generation: These teenagers are coming of age amid a climate crisis.

Travel: Spend 36 hours in San Francisco.

Home: Read tips from designers on how to declutter your kitchen and maximize space.

ADVICE FROM WIRECUTTER

A hack to keep towels mildew-free

Despite your best efforts, bathroom towels can develop that unmistakable mildew smell. Luckily there's a straightforward solution that's more cost-effective than tossing out your towels whenever that odor lingers: borax and a hot laundry cycle. Adding just a scoop can boost the power of your detergent and help to break down stubborn stains and odors. — Caroline Mullen

GAME OF THE WEEK

Chloe Kitts shoots a basketball over defenders.
South Carolina forward Chloe Kitts in a game against Michigan this week. Ian Maule/Associated Press

No. 1 South Carolina vs. No. 9 N.C. State, women's college basketball: South Carolina was perfect last season, compiling a 38-0 record and winning a national title. The team is once again ranked No. 1 to start this year, but it faces an early test: N.C. State, which reached the Final Four last season before falling to — you guessed it — South Carolina. Tomorrow at 3 p.m. Eastern on ESPN

NOW TIME TO PLAY

Here is today's Spelling Bee. Yesterday's pangrams were rotunda and turnaround.

Take the news quiz to see how well you followed this week's headlines.

And here are today's Mini Crossword, Wordle, Sudoku, Connections and Strands.

Thanks for spending part of your weekend with The Times. — Melissa

P.S. The most-clicked story in The Morning this week had nothing to do with the election: Readers really wanted to know what pants are most stylish right now.

Sign up here to get this newsletter in your inbox. Reach our team at themorning@nytimes.com.

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Editor: David Leonhardt

Deputy Editor: Adam B. Kushner

News Editor: Tom Wright-Piersanti

Associate Editor: Lauren Jackson

News Staff: Desiree Ibekwe, Sean Kawasaki-Culligan, Brent Lewis, German Lopez, Ian Prasad Philbrick, Ashley Wu

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       09 noviembre 2024
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